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the-south-asian.com April 2004 |
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April 2004 Wildlife
Paragpur
- India's 1st
Corporate Talk
Books Lehngas - a limited collection Books Between
Heaven and Hell
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A SMALL TRAIN TO NOWHERE by Mukesh Khosla
The small gauge 'Kangra Valley Rail System' , with most of its control equipment dating to the first quarter of last century, still traverses the lush countryside, at places skirting the gurgling River Beas, before coming to a halt at Paragpur. At dusk, the signal for the train is still lit manually with an oil lamp the way it was done 75 years ago. The 300 year old residence of Justice Sir Jai Lal that has now been converted into a heritage property is still haunted by the Lordship’s ghost.
It is a little known getaway which has remained hidden in the folds of history. But mention Paragpur to anyone familiar with the Kangra region and it would bring out a flood of nostalgia and tales of the Raj. Paragpur is just a four-hour drive from Chandigarh via Ropar and Anandpur Sahib. It can also be approached by train from Pathankot. This is no ordinary village. In July 1998 the Himachal government gave it a heritage status---the first ever heritage village of India. The small gauge 'Kangra Valley Rail System' with most of its control equipment dating to the first quarter of last century, still traverses the lush countryside at places skirting the gurgling River Beas before coming to a halt at Paragpur. At dusk, the signal for the train is still lit manually with an oil lamp the way it was done 75 years ago. Paragpur in the Kangra valley is one of the most panoramic areas in Himachal Pradesh. It is replete with history and is the home of the famous Kangra School of paintings. Haripur-Guler, the cradle of the Kangra school, is one of the first stops here. The artists' complex of Andretta, almost 100 kilometers from Paragpur is another must-see village for the artistically inclined. The complex was set up by one of Punjab's best known artists, Sobha Singh whose paintings of Sohni-Mahiwal and Guru Govind Singh are among the most precious acquisitions of the National Museum of Modern Art. A lesser known fact is that probably the world's - and most certainly India's -oldest ruling lineage comes from Kangra. A glimpse of the regal past is the indomitable Kangra Fort which is just 40 kilometres from Pragpur. This fort was the stronghold of the Hindus until it was conquered by Mughal Emperor Jehangir in 1622. The Kangra Temple nearby was sacked by Mahmud Ghazni in 1009. It is said the loot he took from this temple financed his next crusade against India.
His Holiness the Dalai Lama...the eminent resident of Mcleodganj Myths & Legends Myths, religion and legends occupy a position of dominance in the valley. Legend has it that when Parvati died, a heart-broken Lord Shiva carried her body through this region. But the body was in such poor shape that it began disintegrating. The famous temple of Jwalamukhi (she of the flaming tongue) was built where Parvati's tongue fell. Another 20 kilometres away is the Chintapurni temple where the heart of Parvati is said to have dropped. Till now devotees throng here from far off places as it is believed that if you wish something from your heart it is sure to be fulfilled. Paragpur, one of the most stunning villages in the Kangra Valley with its small population is located at an elevation of around 1800 feet (450 metres). It nestles below the Dhauladhars or the white ranges of the Himalayas. 'Prag' in Sanskrit means pollen and Paragpur literally translates as the pollen country. Said to have been founded in the early 17th. century to commemorate Princess Parag Rani, who revolted against the Muslim rulers of India, Paragpur is unbelievably picturesque having held on to the essence of an era gone by. Unchanged shops, cobbled streets, an ornamental village tank, mud plastered and slate roofed houses - indeed the whole place has a gentle rustic beauty.
Over the centuries this little village has been able to retain its pristine beauty and has also moved ahead with the times. There are negligible components of illiteracy and hardly any poverty around the area. There is a well-equipped private water line run free of charge by the family of Butials. Most of the houses are over a century old and are said to have been constructed in accordance with the principles of Vastu Shastra thus making it one of the best-planned villages of the country. All roads in the village are cobbled as, in olden times, they facilitated the movement of horses. After being declared a heritage village, the Paragpur panchayat is laying down stringent rules to preserve the culture and endearing beauty of the place. A specific colour code will be followed and all buildings will be in conformity with the medieval ambience of the village. The Soods were instrumental in the foundation of Paragpur and built their homes around a courtyard. A branch of the Soods who still have their original home in the ancestral courtyard, are descendents of a key figure of Punjab, Justice Sir Jai Lal, who counted among his closest friends people like Lord Harding and the legendary Maharajas of Patiala, Kapurthala and Bushair. Sir Jai Lal's 300-year-old home has now been restored by his grandson, Vijai Lal. Though retaining the exterior of the ancestral home, he has used the original techniques but with modern plumbing and lighting. It has a very large bedroom, a kitchen, sitting room, dressing room and study with an open terrace overlooking the Dhauladhar peaks in the distance.
Courtyard Haven Located near the village tank and approached by a cobbled street, this courtyard haven captures its original era offering an unusual intimacy in the midst of a medieval village.
The manor has now been converted into a heritage resort and appropriately named The Judge's Court as the property has traditionally been known as 'Judge Sahib Ki Kothi'. It has seven rooms in addition to the suite in the ancestral courtyard. The rooms go by the names such as 'Dhauladhar', 'Kipling' 'Hardinge' and 'Kangra'. The resort has started to attract a large number of tourists, mainly foreigners who come to this village for its exotic architecture and grandeur. Some of course come in the hope of meeting Sir Jai Lal---or rather his ghost who visits the Kothi on stormy nights. This writer was one of the few fortunate visitors to have accosted the fleeting apparition of Sir Jai. It had started pouring around midnight and suddenly out of nowhere, the stately phantom appeared striding down the gallery in his flowing black robes. Even as lightening struck he turned back and stared me straight in the eye sending a chill down my spine. Whether the ghost really visits the mansion or it is a trick to lure tourists to the resort is a closely guarded secret. But it certainly adds to the charm of the place. Indeed, an all-pervasive old world charm greets a traveller who visits Paragpur and its well-preserved old houses, temples, tanks, water mills and cobbled streets. A quaint stillness permeates the place. As if time had stopped in this nowhere land.
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