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 the-south-asian.com March / April 2006  | 
    
       
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		March/April Contents   Real Issues  South Asian issues  News from elsewhere  Heritage  World 
		Bank in  Conservation  Lifestyle 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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	Page  2  of  2 
	Lahore Lookout - Tollinton Market Saved (cntd) 
	
	
	 
	Lahore architects: There are two names that stand out in the history of 
	modern Lahore architecture. Some of Lahore’s most exquisite buildings were 
	the design of Bhai Ram Singh, who holds the honour of being one of 
	the first batch of National College of Arts /Mayo School of Arts, Lahore to 
	have studied under Lockwood Kipling, father of famous Rudyard Kipling in 
	1875 and also the first native Principal of the college in 1909. The second 
	name is that of Sir Ganga Ram who started his career as an assistant 
	engineer in Lahore in 1873 and left behind a grand legacy of buildings that 
	he donated in charity to the Sir Ganga Ram Trust that still functions to 
	this day. Also noteworthy is Mr Purdon & Kanhaiya Lal the 
	architects who designed the King Edward Medical College.  Bhai Ram Singh was also involved in the interior design 
	of the Durbar Room, Osborne House on the Isle of Wight. This building 
	was built between 1845-51 as a country retreat for Queen Victoria who became 
	Empress of India in 1876. Unable to visit the sub continent, the choice of 
	the Indian style for the Durbar Room was the culmination of this proxy 
	India. Queen Victoria’s third son Arthur, Duke of Connaught, for the 
	billiard room at Bagshot Park used the style of architecture in the 1880s. 
	Bhai Ram Singh carved the interior under the supervision of Lockwood Kipling 
	(father of Rudyard) who was director of the Lahore School of Art. The same 
	team produced the Durbar Room at Osborne.  Tollinton Market History In 1864 as a result of the Industrial revolution of the 
	1850’s, a movement started in the Punjab for developing local arts and 
	industries. Subsequently, it was decided to organize the First Punjab 
	Exhibition in Lahore. To display vast number of exhibits, a special 
	building, now known as Tollinton Market, was erected in the vicinity of the 
	famous Anarkali Bazaar. While Mr. Lockwood Kipling, C.I.E. was Curator of 
	the Museum, the design of the building was prepared by Bhai Ram Singh. The 
	building was completed in 1894, and all the collections were immediately 
	transferred to it. Sir Robert Montgomerie opened the exhibition in January 
	1864. In May 1864 it was converted into a Central Museum. In 1893 the Old 
	Central Museum was shifted to the new Building. In 1895 Sir Ganga Ram 
	repaired the Halls for converting it into a Municipal Market. In 1920 the 
	Market was repaired with alterations and named Tollinton. The Illustrated 
	London News printed a couple of sketches showing the façade and the interior 
	of Tollinton market, so important was this exhibition center. The name 
	Tollinton market was the name of a Lahore District Commissioner. It is not 
	clear whether the name was Tollinton or Tollington.  According to Dr. Ajaz Anwar who is currently the Secretary, 
	Lahore Conservation Society:  " the covered hall with many sky lights drew its design from the Oriental 
	Bazaaars that still thrive in Aleppo, Damascus, Tehran and Istanbul. …….The 
	pointed arches and spearheads are Islamic elements and the wooden arches and 
	stained glass add to its beauty…This market became a prestigious shopping 
	locale for the elite and because it was under the municipality of the days 
	of yore, it was spanking clean. Today filth and decay have overwhelmed the 
	place, because of the poultry being sold there. ….." Battle for Tollinton Market: 1994 – 2000. The Land Mafia [ aka Qabza Group] of Lahore along with the 
	minions of Lahore Development authority and the Lahore Municipal Corporation 
	became the [10 storey] Plaza & Parking Lot protagonists. On the conservation 
	side were the Museum of Lahore, the Pakistan Heritage Foundation , Lahore 
	Conservation Society and the Ajuman-e Mimaran whose President is Kamil Khan 
	Mumtaz . Dr Ahmed Hasan Dani was also on the board of the Lahore Museum and 
	is perhaps the most important & senior archaeologist of Pakistan. Dr. Ajaz 
	Anwar held a slide show on 30 th October 1994 to "Save Tollinton". In 
	addition he painted a water color of the Tollinton Market called Gambit  All buildings over 75 years old are protected by the 
	Antiquities act amended in 1992. The details of the Tollinton Market Battle 
	are documented in a calendar brought out in 1997 by Dr Ajaz Anwar [Professor 
	at NCA, Lahore] on Tollinton Market. Around 1994, a group of students at the NCA spontaneously 
	took to the streets and fellow Lahoris joined them in their protest to save 
	the Tollinton market building. The government eventually decided to save the 
	Tollinton market building by renovating it and also by donating RS 40 
	million to carry out the repairs [ actual spent is about Rs 30million].  Memories of Tollinton Market : Scholars & Students from the nearby institutions of Punjab 
	University, Government College, King Edward Medical College, and the 
	National College of Arts have always dropped by and served as the 
	plebian/proletarian customers of Tollinton market. One remembers the 
	Tangiers Milk Bar and the Capri Restaurant. Shopping by the Begums of Lahore 
	[BOLs] was also a key economic indicator. Al Fatah stores now near Liberty 
	Market in Gulberg was situated at the end of the building. The building 
	housed a Meat & Fish Market in one Hall with high roofs and a Vegetable & 
	Fruit market Hall at the other end. In 1950’s as kids we would frequent 
	these places with our shopping mothers. Later in our 1960’s student days, 
	the favourite snacks were the "Bund Kebabs" with Cokes or a "Hunters Beef" 
	sandwich. Outside on the verandah were the Magazine shops. During Christmas, turkeys would be sold by the poultry 
	merchants who eventually [courtesy the foul smell of the chicken refuse ] 
	managed to destroy the Tollinton market and were moved to Jail Road. 
	Tollinton Market big shoppers /customers have included the rich and 
	powerful, from the governors of Punjab to the senior Civil servants and the 
	feudal gentry.  Lahore’s Immortal Heritage: The Struggle continues. 
	 Lahore has learnt to conceal its seductive charms under a 
	mask of ugly urban plazas, crumbling decrepit, worn out grand old bungalows. 
	It may not have the honour of being home to a poet of Ghalib’s stature, but 
	still has its share of eminent artists, writers and poets among them -Indian 
	Lahorites such as Prakash Tandon, Khushwant Singh, Ved Mehta and Pran 
	Neville, Amrita Shergill . More recently Dr Abdus Salam, Faiz Ahmed Faiz, 
	Ustad Daman, Mumtaz Mufti, Manto, Ashfaq Ahmed, Bano Qudsia and so many 
	others scholars and ordinary citizens have contributed immensely and drunk 
	deeply from its shaded peepul [Buddhas’s famous Bodhi tree] lined promenades 
	such as The Mall and other avenues and its famous canal and gardens. Daata 
	Ganj Baksh and Hazrat Mian Mir [who laid the foundation of the Golden Temple 
	at Amritsar] lie buried here, beseeched by the prayers of the weak and poor. 
	Lahore as a city in history is made more romantic, mysterious and attractive 
	by its famous Anarkali Bazaar, thus named after the famous dancer Anarkali 
	in the court of Emperor Akbar.  Its buildings while less grandiose than Lutyens New Delhi, 
	nevertheless have a quiet dignity and a human scale of their own. Gautam 
	Bhatia parodies the new "Bania Gothic" architecture style of Delhi in his 
	"Punjabi Baroque & other Memories of Achitecture" book. Inspired by "Lootyens", 
	Bania architecture became the "Loot-maar" style of building. In the Lahore 
	of today, we are blessed with a unique species of the "Louis the Lahori" 
	style of carved furniture. Lahore’s buildings and houses have heralded the 
	golden age of the "white house" style facades and the flotsam of plazas that 
	could be dubbed as the Chaudary’s Follies.  In John Le Carre’s recent 2003 book "Absolute Friends", 
	Lahore receives mention for its fashionable tailors. Lahore was known to 
	folks all over British India as the "Paris of the East". In Carre’s book, 
	the hero is a son of a former British Indian Army Major called Mundy. Mundy 
	recalls his father’s past days in Lahore whilst going through the hand made 
	shirts by Ranken & Co., civil and military tailors and outfitters. This 
	tailoring concern had branches at Calcutta, Simla, Delhi, Rawalpindi, Lahore 
	and Murree. Established in 1770 in Calcutta, it was among the first 
	tailoring concern "on Special Appointment" to the Company, and later to the 
	Governor-General. It is a cold and dry winter this time of the year. Winter 
	rains are long overdue. This winter of our discontent has been made worse by 
	the earthquake in north Pakistan with a poor record of earthquake proof 
	buildings. Lahore’s heritage buildings are dusty but have withstood the test 
	of time. The air is choked with the fumes of diesel smoke. We look forward 
	to better times & leaders than the present lot to lead us out of this 
	cost-benefit approach to life.  Kim’s Gun [ "Bhangion Ki Tope" – a Khalsa Misl was called 
	Bhangis who retrieved the Gun from Abdali’s retreat near Chenab River] 
	stands quietly near and facing the Tollinton Market. It is a mute witness to 
	the blood that has been spilt by the Lovers of Lahore. The High Court 
	Building is the most recent victim to this looting of Lahore’s architectural 
	splendours. Others on Mcleod Road are being rapidly pulled down. Meanwhile the spirit of Sir Ganga Ram, Bhai Ram Singh, the 
	great architects & builders of Lahore, still pervades the air of Lahore. The 
	belief of Lahoris is that it is the spirit of these old scholars and sufi 
	saints [ Datta Ganj Baksh & Hazrat Mian Mir] that has protected them through 
	its turbulent history. The saving of Tollinton market is nothing short of a 
	miracle. The unseen arbiter’s hand [and not a foreign hand] is surely there 
	in saving it. Perhaps it would be a self-flattering folly to think that the 
	citizens of Lahore saved the Tollinton market for the future generations. 
	Its saviours have been the good deeds/karma of its ordinary citizens, 
	saints, concerned scholars /architects who worked, lived and died here. 
	Still, one needs to be thankful for these small mercies in these dark times. 
	The saving of Tollinton Market is a case of one lighted candle in this khaki 
	dust from the raiders of the lost ark. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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