S.S. Mukherjee

Paro Dzong stands tall over its own valley

From high snow-capped mountains emerging from the clouds to the prayer flags fluttering in the wind, from the fortresses shrouded in mystery to resplendent monasteries, from mask dances to folk music, Bhutan is an elevating experience.

Bhutan is one of those parallel worlds of fiction where everything is familiar, but the details are all different. And on a four-day-three-night package to this land of monasteries, Lamas and chortens, one begins to notice the similarities---and differences. Many locals speak and understand Hindi and Bengali, shopkeepers happily trade in Indian rupees, Western tourists in trekking gear walk past Buddhist monks rotating prayer wheels.

Bhutan is the last surviving Mahayana Buddhist state that has shaped the nation's history, and it still plays a vital role in the everyday life. Ascetics, scholars, philosophers and pilgrims have been drawn to these remote and rugged mountains in search of wisdom, inspiration and solitude. The pristine glory of hills and an amazing variety of ecosystems all go to make a visit to this Land of the Thunder Dragon a lifetime experience.

Measuring only 290 kilometres from the north to south and 530 kilometres from east to west, Bhutan is in a time wrap. Despite the fact it opened its doors to tourism in 1974 it has not been touched by commercialization. Most inhabitants are blissfully unaware of the world around them and are happy doing their own thing. 'Let the world come and meet us,' seems to be their motto.

An increasing number of people from around the globe are making Bhutan a part of their itinerary. What they discover is a place that has not changed in centuries. The culture and traditional lifestyle are intact.

From high snow-capped mountains emerging from the clouds to the Dzongs (fortresses) shrouded in mystery. From the woven garments to archery competitions, from gompas and prayer flags fluttering in the wind to the natural environment, from religious mask dances to folk music, Bhutan is an elevating experience.

Like all Bhutanese school children dress in national costumes.

The world may come to them in blue jeans and designer clothes but the locals are happy and proud of dressing up in their Khos and Kiras. Bhutanese fiercely safeguard their ancient way of life. Despite the increasing number of tourists every year, they are blissful in their self-imposed isolation. But like good Buddhists, they are both hospitable and friendly to visitors.

The breathtaking beauty of the place mesmerizes one right from the time the Druk Air plane touches down at the only airport of the country in Paro valley. It is an awe-inspiring sight. Mountains all around are dotted with houses and temples with architecture found nowhere else in the world.

The country has been identified as one of the ten bio-diversity hot spots in the world and also as one of the 221 global endemic bird areas. Its eco-systems harbours some of the most exotic species of eastern Himalayas with an estimated 770 species of birds and over 50 species of rhododendron, besides an astonishing variety of medicinal plants and orchids. Bhutan also has a rich wildlife with animals like the snow leopard, tiger, golden languor, blue sheep, water buffalo and elephant.

The population of 700,000 is mostly made up of indigenous Bhutanese. Many naturalized citizens later came from Tibet, Nepal and India and made Bhutan their home.

Paro valley is the crown of Bhutan. To the north of this enchanting valley lies Mount Jhomolhari from whose five peaks glaciers plunge into deep gorges converging to form river Paro which nourishes the valley and its adjoining areas.

Buddhists believe Paro was the first stop for Rimpoche the great spiritual Guru, second only to Lord Buddha, on his religious crusade from Tibet to Bhutan. The monastery he built here is now a hallowed place of worship.

Casting a shadow across the town of Paro and controlling all secular and religious activities in its valley is the elegant and perfectly symmetrical Ringpul Dzong built in 1646 by the first spiritual and temporal ruler of Bhutan. The Dzong houses the monastic body of Paro and the Thrimpon (judge) of the district.

Thimpu is 65 kilometres from Paro. Unlike other cities, Bhutan’s capital is not bursting at its seam. Surrounded by majestic mountains, it is an exotic place. There are no crowds or traffic jams, the air is not polluted and majestic hills surround the capital.

Thimpu is home to the Bhutanese Royal family and to several foreign missions and development projects. Situated on the banks of a river, it has the secretarial building which houses the throne room of the King of Bhutan. The National Assembly Hall is housed in a modern building on the other side of the river from the Dzong.

A nine-hole golf course is a quaint sight. It must rank among the most exotic fairways in the world. Though not for the pro, it is both picturesque and leisurely. The Thangka painting school in the heart of the city is definitely worth a visit for its stunning paintings usually found on the walls of monasteries. You could also visit a traditional medicine-manufacturing unit or several shops selling hand made paper and incense sticks.

Thimpu's real charm lies in its main bazaar where shops are decorated in traditional style and shopkeepers are delightfully helpful. Most of these tourist shops sell masks, jewellery, carpets, wooden products and Bhutan's world famous stamps which can also be purchased from the main post office here. You must pick up Bhutanese honey and jams which are fresh and better than the best you can buy anywhere else.

Bhutan has a thriving liquor industry and those wanting a tipple will never be disappointed. One can choose from the highly rated Bhutan Mist to locally produced run, whiskey and gin.

The hotels of Bhutan Tourism Corporation hold several surprises for the tourists. Each property is designed in the traditional Bhutanese style and is set in an unusual and dramatic location. Rooms are heated in winter and have modern baths with running hot and cold water.

The food is hot and spicy and though the Bhutanese dishes follow simple recipes, they taste very good. The staple food is rice, vegetables and meat, usually beef, pork, chicken and yak. Most of the top hotels have their own restaurants where Bhutanese food is served tempered to western taste. There are a few free standing restaurants in Thimpu but it is best to stick to the hotel food. In fact, get it packed if you are going out for a drive.

Beyond Thimpu one needs a permit stating the purpose of one's visit. This is easily obtained through a reputed travel agent. Once that is done one can visit Tongsa, in central Bhutan, which is the royal family’s ancestral home. Protected from invaders by the impenetrable valley, Tongsa is an impregnable fortress with a labyrinth of temples, corridors and offices.

However, travelling in Bhutan can be a problem. It has neither an air service, nor railway. Public buses are crowded and rough and the winding roads make them uncomfortable. Make sure a tour operator arranges a taxi for you. The Bhutan Tourism Corporation has a fleet of luxury cars and coaches with trained drivers.

If the weather is clear and the mood is adventurous, then the eastern side offers some of the world's best treks. Even if not in the mood for a trek, a long drive on the spectacular hilly roads is highly recommended. Sheer drops of thousands of feet, huge cascading waterfalls, endless turns make it an exhilarating and a memorable drive.

While driving one is often surprised by--a herd of blue sheep scampering up the rock faces, yaks roaming in the mountains, or even a glimpse of the rare and elusive snow leopard or a golden languor taking a leisurely walk across the road. It is this exotica that makes Bhutan such a quaint destination.

1] Paro Dzong stands tall over its own valley.

2] Like all Bhutanese school children dress in national costumes.

3] Garment weaving is a big industry in Bhutan.

4] Chortems and prayer flags dot Bhutan.

ACCESS: Bhutan's national carrier, Druk Air has regular flights from Delhi and Kolkata. The flight into Paro airport is a mesmerising aeronautical feat and offers an exciting descent into the kingdom.

ACCOMMODATION: Hotels and lodges in Bhutan are in plenty, from the affordable government run to the private ones. All government approved hotels are clean and well maintained and have their own restaurants and some also have bars

CLIMATE: The best time to visit Bhutan is from April to September. VISAS: No visa required for Indian nationals -- a valid passport or identification document such as a driving license is enough to get an entry permit..

MONEY: The Bhutanese currency is ngultrum and is linked to the Indian rupee. Thus Indian currency is a legal tender and is accepted at all hotels, shops and restaurants.