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the-south-asian.com                            October  2000

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Sari - graceful and youth-focused

by

Surabhi Khosla

 
L-R: A Banarasi sari designed by Abha Dalmia; sari by Anju Modi; South sari by Mukta Jain

For years fashion gurus have been giving new meaning and style to this graceful Indian attire. The 'Bridal Asia' held in New Delhi from 30 September- 2 October brought together some of the best talent from the region. Apart from bridal attires, the restylised sari was there to woo the young.

Anju Modi's creativity extends beyond a traditional definition. Her sari designs challenge pre-determined notions and set out to define their own fashion parameters. This year the designer has made a complete departure from her well-known USP of muted colours and understated embroideries to create bold patterns in vibrant hues. A kind of a techno-nature blend in cottons and silks. Says Anju, " Even as we move into the era of cyber space, there seems to be a simultaneous search for nirvana---of going back to nature. My saris are a form of purity akin to nature."

The highlights of her new collection are luminescent saris accentuated by translucent and iridescent effects. Satin coatings, metallic fabrics and fancy cutout effects on blouses. The emphasis is on contrast. Asymmetric lines are used in restraint to break the monotony of the straight line. Minimalism is the key with focus on the linear.

Modi's saris stand out for their practicality and elegance. And the extra edge comes from the different shades of nature---a hark back to nostalgia.

Abha Dalmia is a keen student of Indian and Asian textiles. Her saris are known for their unique blend of traditional designs enhanced by newer and trendy colour combinations. Her stunning bridal collection is a palette of sun colours and earthy tones used with different blends of fabrics in silk, organza and tissue. Though not exactly a revivalist, Dalmia's art is a blend of the retro look steeped in modernity.

Unlike Abha Dalmia, Ritu Kumar, one of India's foremost designers is an out and out revivalist. A designer who has successfully bridged the gap between tradition and modernity. Ritu has worked extensively with different traditions and experimented with the age-old techniques to create a new identity for Indian fashions.