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the-south-asian.com October 2004 |
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October
2004 Heritage
Books Between
Heaven and Hell
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RITU KUMAR - Winter Collection 2004 by Surabhi Khosla
A revivalist in the Indian fashion industry, Ritu has over the years successfully bridged the gap between tradition and modernity as is obvious from her Winter Collection 2004…
In these times of hype and image management, clothes certainly make a woman. And no one makes clothes for women better than couturier Ritu Kumar---clothes that spell style, elegance and class every yard of the way. It is simply impossible to ignore the stature of Ritu Kumar. At an age when most of her contemporaries are content being doddery old grandmas, Ritu Kumar has proved to be the stalwart of the Indian Fashion industry churning out exclusive and brilliant designs that are a style statement in themselves. Today she is the dress-maker by appointment to some of the most stunning young ladies in India-- Sushmita Sen, Aishwariya Rai, Manpreet Brar, Diana Hayden and more. Though she may have gained global popularity with her ensemble for these beauty queens, the fact remains that she is one of the country's most creative fashion designers. A revivalist in the Indian fashion industry, Ritu has over the years successfully bridged the gap between tradition and modernity, which is obvious in her Winter Collection 2004. Delicate yet bold…these three words best describe the collection, which has an interesting twist and creates a strong sense of déjà vu. Gypsy skirts, crinkled clothes, long kurtis worn over ankle length skirts, T-shirts coupled with saris and churidars - the clothes are reminiscent of the 60s era of hippies and flower children. Says Ritu, "The outfits, which initiate an ethnic mood are an appealing blend of two completely different cultures – the Hispanic flamenco dancers and our very own Rajasthani gypsies."
The romance of Ritu’s creations is evident in the riot of colours and patterns ranging from the Kutch region in Gujarat to the Pushkar fair in Rajaasthan. However since it’s the winter collection, the clothes also include leather jackets, silk crinkled skirts, clinging silk shirts with crystals and beaded blouses worn with boots and hats. The ensemble encapsulates the Ritu Kumar line showcasing leather and denim, soft winter whites and the everlasting sophisticated black. Aptly titled Pret to Couture the clothes are both for casual and formal wear with a young and elegant feel. The inspiration for these garments comes from basic Indian motifs, prints and embroideries intermingled with a wide range of western silhouettes.
Considering that she is a pioneer of craft revival in India with her forte being the traditional Indian clothes that draw heavily on the textile and embroidery heritage of India, Ritu’s Winter Collection shows off her remarkable versatility and her exceptional style of reflecting ancient traditions in a modern setting. Her signature bridal collection aside, Ritu has with this collection evolved another style for the European buyer. Her Indo-Western fusion wear has all the trappings of block prints, embroidery on western styles.
From extremely humble beginnings – working with hand block printers and
two tables in a small village near Calcutta --- Ritu has evolved and over
the last 28 years produced some of India’s most exquisite garments and
accessories in cotton, silk and leather embracing traditional textile crafts
as well as the lineage of Indian design. She has successfully demonstrated
that handmade products can be as profitable and even more sensational than
those made by machine. Today Ritu Kumar's name is synonymous with the Indian fashion industry and her company Ritika Ltd. rakes in an estimated annual turnover of over Rs. 25 crores. She has nine outlets all over India and one in London, which was patronized by the late Princess Diana. In fact she is a name to reckon with in the international fashion circuit. Indeed, Ritu Kumar has successfully bridged the gap between traditionalism and modernity. The famous Paris fashion store Galleries Lafayette now displays Ritu's clothes under her own label. "It is not a choice between half a meter of spandex and six meters of fabric which constitutes the sari, but the ability to understand each for what it stands for," says Ritu. It is not surprising then that whenever the lady announces a new collection there is a sudden rush of excitement among the glitterati. Whether it is zardozi or traditional marble inlay work, whether it is embroidery or weaves, there is that distinct Ritu Kumar stamp on each of her garment. *****
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