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the-south-asian.com September 2000 |
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The unconquered 20 by Dinesh Sharma
Excitement is rife in mountaineering circles with the discovery of 20 virgin unscaled Himalayan peaks. The existence of these peaks has not been known even to the Alpine Club of London and the Himalayan Club in Mumbai, two of the oldest mountaineering clubs of the world. Eleven of these 20 peaks are unnamed. One of the star attractions is the Changuch Peak [6,322 metres in the Kumaon region of Uttar Pradesh].
The Indian climbing season [May-September] this year opened new vistas for mountaineers and adventure tourists. There are 20 virgin Himalayan peaks waiting to be conquered. Eleven of these 20 peaks are unnamed. They owe their new found celebrity status to the fact that their existence has not been known even to the Alpine Club of London and the Himalayan Club in Mumbai, two of the oldest mountaineering clubs of the world. " This is a busy summer on the Indian Himalayas," says Ravinder Nath, Director, Indian Mountaineering Foundation, " As many as 31 foreign expeditions have already been booked for this season. Some for old peaks and many for new ones." A far cry from the sixties when only one or two expeditions attempted to scale the peaks. But, as Nath explains, " this year is different. There is tremendous excitement at the prospect of conquering these new peaks." Breathtaking adventure awaits the expeditions when they attempt the virgin peaks. One of the star attractions is the Changuch Peak [6,322 metres U.P.'s Kumaon region]. Rising above the Pindari Glacier, this unassailed peak has so far beaten back two attempts and maintained its virginity by remaining unclimbed to date. It offers a ridge leading to the legendary Nandakot Peak [6,861m]. The two other virgin peaks beckoning climbers are in the Garhwal region namely Chaukhamba III [6,974m] and Chaukhamba IV [6,854m]. Of the four Chaukhamba peaks two have already been scaled. One was conquered by a Swiss expedition in 1939 and the other by a French team in 1952. Last year an Austrian expedition had in vain attempted assailing Chaukhamba III by a circuitous route through the Gangotri glacier in the north and then via Khalindi Khal, the Arwa Valley and the Bhagirath Khark glacier near the south-west ridge. The mission was aborted when a sudden avalanche scared the porters away. The Austrians however, climbed up to the Satopanth glacier, but found it impossible to scale the last two kilometres. The mighty massif of Chaukhamba [4 pillars] lies muzzled between Gangotri glacier in west, Bhagirath Khark glacier in north and Satopanth glacier in the east. It was earlier known as the Badrinath Parbat, after the Hindu pilgrimage centre in Alaknanda Valley. Apart from Chaukhamba, the other sought after "virgin" peaks are Chandra Bhaga [6,108m] in Himachal, Langchung Khang [6,776m], Khame Khang [6,601m] in Sikkim and Yan Khagri [6,842m] in Jammu & Kashmir. However, the first expedition of the millennium---a 10 member Austrian team---did not go scaling any of the new peaks. It is now on its way to conquering the sacred Kanchanjunga Peak, which has been opened up and is being attempted after a gap of ten years. But the Austrian mountaineers are not being allowed to unfurl their flag atop Kanchenjunga. They will do the symbolic honours 10 metres short of the 8,586 metres peak because of restrictions by the Sikkim government to maintain its "sacred" status. Garhwal Himalayas have been the all-time favourite of mountaineers. One of the traditionally popular sites include the Shivling [6,543m], on the Garhwal route from Uttarkashi via the Gangotri. This is one of the most frequented peaks in India. It attracts four to five overseas expeditions every year. The just-discovered virgin peaks are going to be hazardous as routes would have to be found and clearings made. Here the Indian expeditions would be given first preference. As Nath points out, " This is only fair. As many as 196 peaks in the Himalayas were first conquered by foreigners in the twentieth century. " Now, according to strictly followed post-independence rules, foreign expeditions would have to incorporate Indian mountaineers to furnish conclusive proof of ascent. A rubric they would have to follow while setting out to attempt the new peaks. __________________
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